I had long been anticipating last weekend's trip to eastern parts of the island to visit two of my favorite people in Crete, Chantal and Clive. The journey got an earlier than expected start when my friend Vardis invited me to spend Friday night at the Ikaros Beach Village resort in Stalidha, a short distance from Clive's village of Skotino, so that I wouldn't have as long a drive to make on Saturday morning. A big thank you to him for this very thoughtful gesture.
I wouldn't normally choose to stay in a place like this (I prefer smaller, boutique hotels) but I have to admit it was very nice. I arrived before Vardis and killed the time waiting for him with a pedicure in the spa. The resort has three swimming pools, but none of them were heated so I happily let Vardis swim on his own while I took photos. The following morning we enjoyed a big, American style buffet breakfast in the resort's large restaurant, with floor to ceiling glass and beautiful views of the sea and beach. Then to the spa's sauna and indoor pool, and after checking out we stopped in Malia for coffee and ice-cream. We then went our separate ways, Vardis to the west and south to spend the remainder of the weekend at another resort in Plakias, and I just a tad to the west to meet up with Clive at his place for lunch.
I rather badly misinterpreted Clive's directions going through Herssonisos, and stopped at one point to send him an SMS asking for clarification. I noticed a car parked directly in front of me and took the picture below because the name is so close to my own (Mary Kyrstyn). Just thought it was kind of amusing.
I finally arrived in Skotino, a very quiet, old village in the hills near Gouves. Clive is the youngest resident in the village, and we remarked that before long, he'll be the only person living there since the other villagers are quite ancient indeed. Clive bought his house here several years ago, and has done an extraordinary job in fixing it up and decorating. He explained that it's a work in progress, but I think that even as it is now, it's a really beautiful, unique home. He put together a lovely lunch...deviled eggs, English cheddar, ham, potatoes, tomato salad, bread and red wine. I wish I had been able to eat more of it, but I hadn't yet fully digested the ice-cream from earlier. I left him shortly after lunch to continue my journey to the east to Sitia, where Chantal lives. He was in the middle of putting the final touches on his new website, NowHeraklion.com, and planned to join us in Sitia later that evening.
I stopped to take several photographs on the way to Sitia, happy that the weather was so much nicer for this trip than it had been for the last one in September. The drive between Agios Nikolaos and Sitia provides some of the most spectacular views in Crete, and I had to balance my desire to turn my head and gaze at the vistas with the need for attention to the road, which winds and turns almost non-stop the entire way. It was great fun to drive, but when took it again on our way to Spinalonga, with Clive at the wheel and me in the back seat, I found myself car sick for the first time in my life. Clive relinquished the wheel to me on the trip home after seeing Spinalonga, for which I was grateful but perhaps Chantal suffered (she was the back-seat passenger this time).
I was happy to finally make it to Spinalonga, having read the book "The Island" by Victoria Hislop, a fictional historical account of several of the inhabitants of the former leper colony. We took the small fishing vessel that transports visitors from the village of Plaka, and then had a nice lunch at a taverna afterward.
That evening we had dinner at a small taverna that is run by a Dutch woman, and I was really pleased with the food, tasteful decor and comfortable atmosphere. The food varied a bit from the usual taverna fare, with some slightly more exotic flavors and concepts. It seems to be quite popular with the locals, which is always a good sign. There was a football game on the television which several people seemed to take an interest in, but then suddenly the waitress closed the decorative shutters over the screen, presumably because she didn't like the way the game was progressing.
The following morning we had breakfast on Chantal's patio before I set out for my drive home. Unfortunately Chantal's cooking efforts were thwarted by a power cut, but she rallied and put out a very nice spread none the less, minus the eggs which couldn't be cooked on the electric stove-top.
I took a break from driving on my way home by stopping at a small beach near the exit to Fodele, for a coffee and a swim. Then another between Rethymno and Chania, where I met up with Vardis for lunch at a taverna along the National road.
Very nice weekend, I'm so glad I got to see Chantal and Clive one last time before I head back to the States.
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